Historic and traditional shops still standing in Barcelona

Modernist façades and vintage decor in candle shops, glove designers, knitwear producers and more spanning back centuries

Cereria Subirà, crafting unique candles in Barcelona’s Gothic quarter since 1761
Cereria Subirà, crafting unique candles in Barcelona’s Gothic quarter since 1761 / Cillian Shields
Cillian Shields

Cillian Shields | @pile_of_eggs | Barcelona

September 24, 2024 11:45 AM

September 24, 2024 12:31 PM

Barcelona is currently seeing a wave of historic and iconic shops closing down, striking a nerve with many locals irked at seeing traditional stores be replaced by tourism-facing businesses.

Yet, there are still dozens of centuries-old businesses still working with traditional methods that are bucking that trend and remain strong today. As this is Catalonia, many of these emblematic establishments are easily identifiable, adorned with beautiful façades on the outside and vintage modernist decor on the inside.

These are places that have survived civil war, dictatorship, health crises, economic downturns, social revolution, and much more, only to come out the other side still standing today, beloved by locals for the products and services they provide and for their exterior aesthetic beauty seen from the street. 

Guanteria Alonso is a specialized glove shop that has been reading the hands of Barcelona residents, tailoring their pieces to fit exactly their clients’ measurements, since 1905. From the early 20th century, the store has sold gloves, fans, perfumes, and toiletries. Since 1973, the business has been owned by glove manufacturers, the Alonso family. A visit to the store will also reveal its modernist interior decorations.

Casa Gispert has been selling dried fruit, nuts, coffee, tea, cocoa, and spices since 1851. A tradition unique in Europe, twice a week the store roasts peanuts and almonds in its old wood-fired oven which dates back to the store’s origins, which gives the nuts a characteristic rich flavour. 

Casa Beethoven, on La Rambla, is a sheet music store open since 1880, and still has many elements of its original design. Filling its shelves are hundreds of books and thousands of loose pages that have been darkened by time, and even a piano dating back to the 1800s as well, bought by the first owners of the store. 

As well as sheet music, the store also sells plenty of other musical items and accessories, such as guitar strings, small instruments, and decorations. 

Gèneres de Punt La Torre has specialized in making knitted underwear since 1900. It’s currently in the hands of the third generation of the Carreras family, while Daniel, currently in charge, is preparing to leave it to his daughter for when he retires. 

Espadrilles were historically a worker’s show more commonly seen in rural fields before La Manual Alpargatera, in 1940, started making them for fashion. In recent years, they’ve become one of the hottest footwear trends across the world.

Cereria Subirà - Crafting unique candles in Barcelona’s Gothic quarter since 1761
Cereria Subirà - Crafting unique candles in Barcelona’s Gothic quarter since 1761 / Cillian Shields

Cereria Subirà has been crafting unique candles in Barcelona’s Gothic quarter since 1761. 

A whole article could be written on the design of modernist pharmacies in the city. The oldest of which, with elegant stained glass windows above the wooden exterior frames of its facade, is Farmàcia 1561, which is nearly half a millennium in existence. 

What keeps these historic businesses in operation for so long is their passion, their dedication to quality handcrafted products, gaining customer loyalty by offering expert advice, and often the singular focus of the products they sell or services they offer.

 

Many of these historic establishments have been given unique plaques at the foot of their front door, offered by the local council in recognition of their contribution to the character of the city. Look out for them the next time you’re walking around Barcelona.